Lubrication, Oil Pumps, Sumps, Filters & Things

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This section is for oil strainer 'suction filter' body (50085) in the sump right through oil cooler fittings to the restrictor in the block for the cylinder head.

Also listed are the main parts used in Purolator oil filters as fitted to Aston Martin DB2 to DBS 6 or AM Vantage 6 cylinder engines, some of the parts are slightly different in the later cars from the DB4 on.

Some of the parts are used in many other Classic cars fitted with Purolator oil filters, its up to the purchaser to decide whether they are suitable for their car, we only know about Aston's.

The reason we have made these up is that some modern car owners remove the filter, tip the filter bowl up & assume that the only the filter is in the bowl & not any other parts,

We know this because we have had to rebuild several engines because the filter was just 'popped' back in the bowl. In our Technical section there is a list & description of which & how it fits together.

Starting from the strainer.

The strainer system is perfectly adequate for all engines, so is the supply tube from the strainer to the pump, more essential is keeping the strainer under a good batch of oil, the o rings in the strainer & pump do a good job but will allow a little air past them if old or not replaced recently, if any brisk driving is considered use a baffle kit to control the oil.

The oil pump in std form in good condition is easily able to provide enough oil for most engines, if it isn't you have a problem elsewhere, note that besides the crank there are several places in the timing gear that causes oil pressure loss.

If you have an Early DB2 with the Kleenoil filter (identified by a largish 'T' handle on top of it) it needs removing , chucking in the srap bin & the engine fitting with the later oil filter adaptor, filter head & bowl assembly, the Kleenoil filter is not suitable for a DB2 to MkIII engine - maybe for a pre-war car but not any post-war car.

The Purolator element type oil filter is quite good at its job, there is an assembly diagram under 'the technical section', the point is that when you change the filter you can see if there is any debris in the bottom of the bowl, the main thing is not to drop the internal component parts into the waste oil and lose them as stated above.

The oil filter adaptor assembly (bolts to the engine block & connects the filter head) doesn't lend itself to any easy mods as it is easy to ruin it, we will supply a new one shortly with larger oil drillings (looks visually the same) that doesn't need any alteration to increase flow, not pressure which should still be 60lbs @ 4000 rpm, not much more is actually needed.


 

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